2006 ASJA Writers Conference
Public: April 29 - April 30, 2006
Members: April 28 - April 30, 2006
Grand Hyatt Hotel
42nd and Grand Central Station, New York, NY
WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO while you're in New York for the ASJA Conference April 28-29-30, 2006
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If you want to know where to go in New York City, ask someone who knows. We asked ASJA members – New York natives and non-New Yorkers alike – to share their favorite City restaurants, hangouts, and activities. What follows is a highly opinionated, mostly accurate insider's guide to one of the great cities of the world. Enjoy it.
First and foremost, we would like to strongly recommend that all visitors to New York City venture outside of the Times Square area. You will thank us in the end. For a free New York City visitor's guide and map go to NYC Visit.
To get around town, buy a Metro card. This $10 investment buys you 6 rides (and transfers if you use them) on any of New York City's buses and subways. You can buy the card at any subway station, but the nearest to the conference is of course Grand Central station. Pick up a bus/subway map while you're there.
Libations
Some of my favorite bars include: Temple Bar on Lafayette just south of Bleecker on the west side, marked only by the inset lizard-shaped light in the wall. It's tiny, elegant, romantic. (It's totally dark and you can't see a thing – which makes it a great place to go at the end of a day when you're falling apart – and they have the hands-down best, best, best popcorn in the world. –Abigail E.) Old Town Bar, 45 East 18th, about 120 years old or so; ditto Fanelli's on 94 Prince Street at Mercer, PJ Clarke 915 3rd Avenue Midtown, McSorley's Ale House (15 East 7th Avenue), The Campbell Apartment in Grand Central and the Landmark Tavern (626 11th Avenue)...each of these is a little time capsule of OLD New York City. You can almost picture the horse and carriage waiting outside... –Caitlin Kelly
For historic taverns, there's The White Horse Tavern (567 Hudson Street at 11th Street), where Dylan Thomas drank himself to death. –Abigail Esman
Asian Food
Great NY Noodletown (28 1/2 Battery at Bayard) for great cheap Chinese food. –Caitlin Kelly
Best dumplings (although this one could start a fight): Shanghai Cuisine (89 Bayard) in Chinatown. –Jenna Schnuer
Best sushi: Tomoe Sushi (172 Thompson Street) in SoHo. –Abigail R. Esman
For Indonesian food, a magical mixture of Indian, Chinese, and Southeast Asian touches, try Bali Nusah Indah (it means Bali the beautiful island), a friendly and inexpensive place in the theater district (651 Ninth Avenue, between 45th and 46th Streets). –Janice Hopkins Tanne
Best restaurant if you want to satisfy a wide range of tastes on the cheap: Rice (227 Mott Street between Spring & Prince) has foods from rice-based cultures around the world. Just don't go at peak dining hours–the place is tiny and it gets packed. –Jenna Schnuer
Italian Food
Forlini's (93 Baxter Street) in Little Italy. Great food, good prices, interesting people. (I did find a gun in a paper bag over the toilet there once.) –Gene Retske
I recommend Piadina (57 W. 10th Street), while a cookbook-writing friend (and her Italian-born husband) recommend Beppe (45 E. 22nd Street) and, especially for lasagna, Bianca (5 Bleecker Street). –Jenna Schnuer
Gene's (73 W. 11th.): good Italian food. –Alma Bond
Pietrasanta (683 9th Avenue at 47th St.). It's a pre-theatre place, so you often need to make reservations. It's comparably priced nouvelle Italian. –Melanie Votaw
Il Fornaio (132 Mulberry Street #A) on the main street in Little Italy. Incredible–and I'm picky, being Italian and all. –Barbara DeMarco-Barrett
For pizza, I'm all about Grimaldi's (19 Old Fulton Street) in Brooklyn Heights. –Sophia Dembling
Best pizza: Patsy's (2287 1st Ave between 117th and 118th). None of the other Patsy's measure up. –Jenna Schnuer
Mexican and South American Food
If you want terrific, elegant Mexican food and don't mind a lot of noise and what can add up to be a big bill, try Mi Cocina (626 Hudson at Jane). The food is really wonderful and very authentic. I went there with a Mexican friend who was blown away. They also have a garden that's open on odd occasions–this is when I usually go. –Carol Kino
Peruvian rotisserie chicken so good it'll bring a tear to your eye–but won't bust your budget: Pio Pio (1746 First Avenue) on the Upper East Side or in Jackson Heights, Queens (the one at 84-13 Northern Boulevard is much livelier and a lot bigger). –Jenna Schnuer
Victor's Cafe 52 (236 W. 52nd Street): a wonderful, elegant Cuban restaurant that serves the best Sangria ever. It was my family's favorite forty years ago! –Alma Bond
Best bites for under $2: tacos from the taco carts in Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx, and upper Manhattan or the roast pork or red bean or chicken buns at Dragonland Bakery (125 Walker Street) in Chinatown or nearly any bakery in Flushing. –Jenna Schnuer
Churrascaria Plataforma (316 W. 49th between 8th and 9th): All you can eat Brazilian food. You could really hurt yourself here if you're not careful. But why be careful? –Beth Levine
Suenos (311 W. 17th Street), a gorgeous bright-pink room with great Mexican food. –Caitlin Kelly
Indian, African, and Middle Eastern Food
I remember taking three non-New York ASJA members down to Greenwich Village for dinner, to the Middle Eastern restaurant where I waitressed in college. The restaurant is called The Olive Tree, and it's been on the corner of MacDougal Street and Minetta Lane forever. The decor is not at all highbrow, the entertainment consists of silent Charlie Chaplin movies shown on a back wall and chalk on your chalkboard-topped tables, and the waitstaff can be a bit slow. But the food, ohmygosh, the food: falafel, babaganush, schwarma, fresh pita bread for nibbling, crisp salad. You may have a hard time making your way through the multi-page diner-like menu filled with Middle Eastern delights. I always recommend that people save room for dessert–we did that night–because the restaurant's Mississippi Mud Pie is the best I've ever had. Best yet? Your total tab, with drinks and dessert, will be in the $20 to $30 range. –Leah Ingram
The best way to eat your way around the world in just fifteen blocks: Roosevelt Ave in Queens between 73rd and 88th offers up delicacies from India, Colombia, Mexico, and several other countries. –Jenna Schnuer
My favorite restaurant in the city is called Khyber Pass (34 St. Mark's Place/8th St. between 2nd and 3rd Avenues). Incredible Afghani food, great ambience, many vegetarian entrees, and inexpensive. I recommend all of the appetizers, the cardamom tea, and I love the pumpkin entree over rice. I've taken at least 20 people there over the years, and everyone has loved it. –Melanie Votaw
Best Turkish mezze meal in a downright pretty setting (and just blocks away from the Met): Beyoglu (1431 Third Avenue) on the Upper East Side. –Jenna Schnuer
In a pinch, downstairs in Grand Central I bought wonderful Indian food from a vendor. Other cuisines represented there, too. Cafeteria-style. –Barbara DeMarco-Barrett
One of my favorite Indian restaurants in NYC was originally recommended to me by fellow ASJAer Louise Tutelian: Utsav Festive Indian Cuisine, on 47th between 6th and 7th (the address is officially 1185 6th Ave)–you can enter it from either 46th or 47th–it's on one of those plazas that cut through between streets. Lovely big room on the second floor, with a very inexpensive lunch buffet and wonderful food. Dinner isn't wildly pricy, either. Louise, this was a great recommendation! –Nancy Hall
There's a wonderful but tiny Moroccan place called Cookies & Couscous (230 Thompson St.). The owner, Moha Orchid, is a doll and loves to schmooze his guests. He's appeared on the Food Network and is an excellent chef. –Melanie Votaw
Fusion, Organic, and "American" Food
Counter (105 First Avenue at 6th Street): a great expensive-but-worth-it organic restaurant run by two lesbians who have an organic garden on the roof of the building. Fascinating menu. –Melanie Votaw
The Candle Cafe (1307 Third Avenue at 75th) on the Upper East Side: expensive but fantastic organic food. My favorite dish there is the Paradise Casserole with sweet potatoes, black beans, and millet. –Melanie Votaw
Candle 79 (154 E. 79th Street between Lex and 3rd). It's really fantastic–more expensive than the already sort of pricey Candle Cafe but, for a special meal, definitely worth it. I'm not a big fan of raw food but Candle 79 was once doing a raw food special lasagna and I gave it a go–and the flavor was big. I didn't sit there thinking "hmm, all this money for raw food." I would order it again any day of the week. (Most of their selections aren't raw food. Everything I've tried there has been a dazzler–I've even taken some hearty meat eaters there and they left as true believers.) And they have a phenomenal selection of organic wines. Good stuff. And by the way, the restaurant is also quite beautiful. –Jenna Schnuer
cigar bar Club Macanudo, (26 E. 63rd St. between Park and Madison). Want to meet stars, have a good dinner, a classy experience and a comforting smoke? This is the place; I never miss it when I am in New York. All you have to do is look at the names on the private humidors – Marino, Giuliani, Schwarzenegger, Clinton (no snide comments, please!), and many others. Gotta dress up to go, but well worth the experience. –Gene Retske
Best deli: 2nd Avenue Deli, 2nd Ave. and 10th St. (the mushroom barley soup is the best in the world). –Fawn Fitter
Katz's Deli (205 E. Houston Street) –Beth Levine
I had a great lunch at a little deli on 3rd Ave., somewhere around E. 38th, 39th, called Delectica (564 Third Avenue). The sandwich (only half of which I could finish) was smoked turkey & brie, with a layer of dark-olive tapenade–JUST a little fattening. On the side, a sweet-potato salad–yum. –Mary Mihaly
Best fried clam roll: Mary's Fish Camp (264 W. 4th St.) (this ain't no Friendly's)–remember to chase that baby down with the terrific ice cream sundae. It's got a high-end version of Magic Shell on it–it's delicious dark chocolate against premium vanilla ice cream–luscious. –Jenna Schnuer
Best biscuits (for Southerners who need a taste of home): Barking Dog Luncheonette (several locations around the city, including 1678 3rd Ave and 1453 York Ave). –Jenna Schnuer
I had a stellar meal at Craftbar in Union Square (900 Broadway between 19th and 20th Sts.). –Jenny Davis
Also, a lovely place for tea, lunch, drinks, is The Cloister (238 East 9th Street), with its fountains and outdoor seating in good weather. Also great for tea/lunch, but with a more formal atmosphere, is King's Carriage House (251 East 82nd). –Abigail R. Esman
Really delightful for those willing to venture north is a tiny, warm, neighborhood place called Kurio (338 E 92nd St between 1st & 2nd Ave). It's run by a young woman who used to work at JoJo and at the much-missed Sign of the Dove, and her parents, who came out of retirement to help her. Food is incredibly fresh, carefully made, and she – the owner – makes what I'm told is the meanest Whiskey Sour in New York. Truly lovely place. (Her father also makes a chocolate dessert amazement thing that may just even be better than Jean-George's!). –Abigail R. Esman
Tavern on Jane (31 8th Ave) has what I think is one of the best burgers in town. It is a great neighborhood bar/restaurant of the sort that NYC used to be full of in the 1970s. Everyone I take there from that era is totally blown away by it. –Nancy Hall (Great food, warm neighborhood bar atmosphere, fantastic place to grab a pint and watch a sporting event while your highbrow fellow dinners slog their way through the Sunday Times. –Leah I.)
Another great hamburger (or bowl of steamed mussels) can be found at Cafe de Bruxelles at 118 Greenwich Street, just at the triangular tip where it starts, intersecting with 13th & Horatio. Don't go into the main restaurant–the menu is more expensive, and not as good. Eat in the bar–with its copper bar that has been there since the 20s or something–and have the bar menu. They also have a huge list of Belgian beers. It's a great neighborhood standby. –Nancy Hall
Steamers Landing (375 South End Ave.): delicious seafood, with a magnificent view of the harbor. –Alma Bond
I had a terrific meal at O'Neals (49 W 64th Street between Broadway & Central Park West), not too pricey ($22-25 entrée). –Mary Mihaly
There's nothing better than the fries with cheese and gravy at Louie's Charcoal Pit in Teaneck, NJ, especially after a long night out. What can I say? I grew up in Jersey from age two to eighteen. I love me a good diner. –Jenna Schuer
French and European
Best possible meal anywhere? Jean-George's JoJo (160 East 64th) –Abigail R. Esman
Tout-Va-Bien (311 W. 51st Street): great food at inexpensive prices. –Alma Bond
I think you will love the true country french atmosphere & delicious cuisine at href="www.lapetiteaubergeny.com">LA PETITE AUBERGE RESTAURANT at 116 Lexington Avenue. See the NY Magazine and Forbes Magazine write–ups on their website (which also contains directions). For
reservations, call 212-772-0493. –Barbara Lang
Le Jardin bistro on 25 Cleveland Place. A bunch of ASJA'ers went there one year after the conference and seemed to enjoy it. –Caitlin Kelly
Olé (434-2nd Ave.): a very Spanish restaurant with excellent food. –Alma Bond
Best Eastern European stick-to-your-ribs food: Veselka, on the corner of 2nd Ave. and 9th St. Open 24 hours for pierogies, borscht, and much more. –Fawn Fitter
Open all night: L'Express (249 Park Avenue South and 249 Park Avenue) for great wine, tasty chocolate desserts, and a wide range of bistro chow at any hour. –Jenna Schnuer
Scandinavia House (Park Ave bet. 37th & 38th) has AQ Cafe on the main floor. It's cafeteria style. The food is good and (mainly) healthy. The cafe is run by Marcus Samuelsson (of Aquavit 65 E 55th St. between Park & Madison and Riingo). Plus, you get to sit on Arne Jacobsen "Ant" chairs, which I love. –Leslie Elman
Coffee and Sweets
Each Sunday morning of the conference, I meet an editor-friend at The French Roast, 6th Ave. downtown (11th and 6th Ave.) –Mary Mihaly
Best chocolates in town: Li-Lac chocolates. Come to the original store on 40 8th Avenue at Jane. They are truly wonderful old-fashioned chocolates. (Li-Lac can also be purchased in the Grand Central market). There's another store a few feet up 8th Avenue that is also dedicated to chocolate (Chocolate Bar) but it is nowhere near as good as Li-Lac. –Nancy Hall
Serendipity 3 (225 E. 60th Street), chocolate capital for chocoholics of the world. True, it is a tourist attraction. But if you get only a couple of days in New York and you're not there very often, it's worth it. (When I was 15, I named my cat Serendipity after the restaurant, so I'm obviously more passionate about the place than your average chocoholic....) –Abigail R. Esman
Best cookies, brownies, bars and rugelach are made by a company called Betsy's Place and available for sale at Zabars (2245 Broadway at 80th) and Dean & Deluca (560 Broadway, 75 University Place, etc.), among others. –Abigail R. Esman (sister-in-law of Mr. Betsy's Place –www.betsysplace.com)
Economy Candy on 108 Rivington Street –Beth Levine
After you visit The Tenement Museum, definitely stop into Il Laboratorio del Gelato (95 Orchard Street) right next door for the best gelato this side of Italy. –Jenna Schnuer
Non-Eating Activities
If you like animals, the Central Park Zoo (830 Fifth Ave) is actually great (not as good as the Bronx Zoo (1040 Grand Concourse), but it's really a full day trip) – the indoor penguin exhibit is lots of fun, and if you go to the rainforest exhibit, bring binoculars or you'll miss half of the gorgeous exotic birds flying high over your head.–Melanie Votaw
The Tenement Museum on 90 Orchard Street. (The Piecing It Together tour takes you back in time to when the lower east side was loaded with families in the garment trade. –Jenna S.) –Beth Levine
Museum of Radio and Television (25 W. 52nd Street.) –Beth Levine
If you have time for only one museum, make it the Frick Collection at Fifth Avenue and 70th Street, a collection of masterpieces (Rembrandt, Holbein, Vermeer, Sargent, Monet) in Henry Clay Frick's mansion, along with antique French and English furniture. It's a small, choice collection in an unusual private house (atrium garden with pool, music). There's an excellent book/gift shop. You'll be enlightened and charmed but not exhausted. –Janice Hopkins Tanne
The Museum of American Folk Art (60 W 66th St.). Or is it the American Folk Art Museum (45 W 53rd St.)? Either way.... Plus, the Museum of the City of New York (1220 Fifth Ave.) has always been a personal favorite of mine. –Sophia Dembling
Asia Society (725 Park Avenue) – fascinating.
If you've been to all the Manhattan museums and want something different, try taking a subway ride to:
The Brooklyn Museum (200 Eastern Parkway) – fantastic.
The Noguchi Museum in Queens (9-01 33rd Road at Vernon Boulevard in Long Island City) – incredible.
Best free wi-fi on a nice day: Bryant Park, behind the library (W. 42nd and 6th Ave.). –Fawn Fitter
I never visit NY without spending at least a few hours in Central Park. Preferably with an old friend and a bottle of wine. –Sophia Dembling
If you've never been before and want to do something touristy but cool, Ellis Island rocks. –Sophia Dembling
Then there's also the Staten Island Ferry (1 Whitehall Street at South Street)–a fun ride across the water. –Carol Kino
Best remainder book table: Biography Bookshop (400 Bleecker at 11th) total gems for very little money–they stock the remainder tables outside as carefully as they stock the shelves inside. –Jenna Schnuer
For local music, there are many fun places around Bleecker Street. Cabaret row is 46th Street between 8th & 9th Avenues. –Melanie Votaw
Shopping, Shopping, Shopping
I like to spend an hour or two at the 26th St. Annex flea market (6th Ave.). –Mary Mihaly
Best chance of hitting a big sale at a department store: Lord & Taylor (424 Fifth Avenue at 38th Street) almost any day of the week. –Jenna Schnuer
My most favorite store in the world (I was just there and did MAJOR damage): Pearl River Mart (477 Broadway). It's a Chinese department store and an absolute delight for the senses. From there, it's a hop, skip and a jump to Chinatown – knockoff designer bags and jewelry (I defy you to tell the difference) at a fraction of the price. (Early Christmas shopping anyone?). –Beth Levine
Bleecker Street is a real mix of things and an easy walk – great pastry shops and used CD stores around 6th; lots of trendy shopping as it heads north in the West Village. And if you like great housewares or tabletop, Pearl River Mart is a great suggestion, as is Global Table (107 Sullivan Street). The West Village store Mxyplyzk (125 Greenwich) always has something well-designed and great and semi-affordable. –Caitlin Kelly
I always make a stop at Daffy's to buy cheap trendy clothes. Just fer fun. –Sophia Dembling
–list compiled by webeditor [at] asja.org